It has become one of our favorite places in Italy to visit because although it is a hilltop town, there is a lot to be discovered here. The trains do however run from La Spezia to Rome Posted by carmenhoffman79 OP 03/28/23 01:49 PM 8 posts Thank you so much! Gene Openshaw is the co-author of the Rick Steves Florence & Tuscany guidebook. I will have a driver, so please if you are driving, watch your wine consumption. The rooms are spacious, modern, clean, and full of little perks like complimentary bottle of wine, in-wall USB chargers, and even an Amazon Alexa. It is people-to-people moments like this that distinguish a good trip. When a steak is ordered, Giulio walks up the seven steps at the back of the restaurant to his busy open kitchen. Only need transportation to Montepulciano. We came, we toured, we ate. At the Santa Giulia farm were enjoying a Zero Kilometer Lunch everything made right on the farm: bread, olive oil, cheese, prosciutto, and wine. Today Im tasting some of the regions great wines in romantic hill towns. (11:50), Seasons of Italy: Fred Plotkin Montepulciano - Rick Steves Travel Forum Meet a Tuscan Coppersmith | Rick Steves Classroom Europe Warning: Vegetarians may want to skip this post. One very big exception would be La Fonte. This topic has been automatically closed due to a period of inactivity. Tuscany Travel Guide by Rick Steves We have friends who didnt take our advice and decided to try to see the entire country of Italy in 12 to 14 days. If you're looking for a home base, the town of Montepulciano is one of my favorites for exploring Tuscany and its wine country. How to choose? Your host, Alex, was once a partner in a local winery and he offered to take us for a visit. I'm guessing his wife. Carmen, please share your complete itinerary and make clear what you are asking. Tuning In to Tasty Italy by Rick Steves Montepulciano has several historic wine cellars to explore, and then enjoy generous tastings. Flattered by my interest, Cesare declares that he will make me a gift. He showed us the pan he first made as a 12-year-old boy in 1948. Thank you, TJ, for this helpful information about Montepulciano. Do you advise picking up the car in Florence or taking the train into someplace in the Tuscan countryside to pick up the car? The apartments are spacious, beautiful, with lots of light, and windows looking out over the valley. Great family and very talented artist! This town is famous for its robust Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wine. Ortaglia is an ancient farmhouse dating back to 1650. Not too far away is another Tuscan wine mecca Montalcino. This is one of the highest rated properties in Montepulciano. 2023 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | CST# 2086743 . TJ, we also found Montepulciano to be a great base for a week in southern Tuscany in October 2012. Rick Steves: Rome is magic after dark. Thank you Scott & Mike for your recommendations! (photo: Rick Steves) In a stony cellar, under one long, tough vault, I joined a local crowd for dinner. We are considering maybe just renting a car but parking may be tricky. There is no better place in the world to confirm what Ben said than in Tuscany. It is not somewhere I would want to be without a car. Returning the car in Tuscany and taking the train to Rome or driving to Rome before dropping off the car? Cesare makes it look easy to coat a frying pan with tin. Owner is a charm! I downloaded the form for the drivers license but I havent filled it out yet, Ive been stuck inside because of the virus. Also, if you are pulled over by the police (very unlikely), you must have it with you. Spraying me with rapid-fire Italian, Adamo explains that hes been making wine here since he was in short pants. Stan & Janet. I look forward to hearing about your vacation and thoughts when you return! This is the place of red poppy fields in the spring that are replaced by yellow sunflowers in summer. Alex will also give you ideas on what to see. About five years ago we bought a copper plate about 5' in diameter to hang over our fireplace. I was contacted directly by another forum member asking for my thoughts and suggestions on Montepulciano in southern Tuscany. Some shops and wineries can ship it home for you. This was just one of fifty groups of ours that Francesco will join for a tasty, educational, and memorable Tuscan evening this year. You dont say how you want it cooked. He slaps the five-pound T-bone on a sheet of paper, descends the stairs, and shows it to the customer. The rest of June features a destination duel between Prague and Budapest, a discussion of teens of color abroad, and Japan.. When it comes to his wine, hes not just enthusiastic hes evangelical. But the main reason I love Montepulciano are the people who pass the years here as their families have for generations. Whether its steak, copper, or wine, theres something so inspiring about people who are completely devoted to their lifes work. The wine is almost a religion here, and guides worshipfully walk you through cellars as if they were sacred spaces. We have stayed there multiple time. . Italy's no-smoking rules are working, but they've caused some bars to stop serving drinks earlier than before the ban went into effect. For one thing, it's fun to say: Mon-tay-pool-chee-AH-noh. They tent to hold true to traditional recipes, but add a bit of a twist to reinvent them. Made from 100 percent Sangiovese Grosso grapes, it's smooth, dry, and aged for a minimum of two years in oak casks, plus an additional four months in the bottle. I mentioned before we are staying for 2 nights at Mueble III Riccio from Friday to Sunday. Be sure to keep this one on your bucket list simply beautiful!!! My first stop is the Cantina Contucci, where Im greeted with fanfare by Adamo. He showed us the pan he first made as a 12-year-old boy in 1948. . Required fields are marked *. On Day 10, take the early bus from Montalcino to Volterra (transfer in Siena). (photo: Rick Steves) The countryside around Montalcino is dotted with vibrant vineyards that seem to roll to infinity. The Pain of Trimming a Rough Cut - Rick Steves' Travel Blog Benjamin Franklin once wrote, "Wine is constant proof that God loves us and loves to see us happy." A modern B&B with 2 easy flights to get to. cce631 asked about the need for a car in Montepulciano - my suggestion is to absolutely have a rental car. THE 10 BEST Montepulciano Farm Stays The trains do however run from La Spezia to Rome, Thank you so much! I stepped in and took a photo when I was staying in Join Rick for the June 5 Monday Night Travel as he shares his most recent trip report. San Gimignano Epitome of a hill town, spiked with 14 medieval towers offering superb views; popular with tourists who crowd the narrow alleys by day and an evocative delight by night. Without a car, modify our suggested itinerary like this: On Day 7, bus from Siena to Montalcino (stay there three nights). January 29, 2016 by Cameron Hewitt The Craftsmen of Montepulciano Every traveler has their favorite Tuscan hill town. 2023 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. . The sights, smells and sounds of Montpulciano. Art Culture Italy. Hollywood, Fl, USA. I called the owners of a few places and ultimately decided on Fonte Martino after speaking with them. 2023 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | CST# 2086743 | Hotel Recommendation in Montepulciano and Pienza - Rick Steves Currently you have JavaScript disabled. Also some accommodations may not be walking distance from the town center. And there we filmed the venerable coppersmith, Cesare, hard at work. On a recent visit to Tuscany, a region fiercely proud of its beef, I sunk my teeth into a carnivore's dream come true. Also: I loved just walking down and up the main street (yes down and up!) Montepulciano - Rick Steves' Travel Blog You should look at the options of train, bus or rental car from the Cinque Terre to Montepulciano. Giulio makes his rounds through the crowded restaurant. If one or two of the couples rents the apartment you get access to the rooftop terrace!! Quite honestly, the only time we ever used a tour was to skip the line to see sights. If your Tuscan dreams feature vibrant vineyards rolling to infinity, punctuated by snaking cypress-lined driveways; humble but beautiful (and steep) hill towns; and world-class wines to make a connoisseur weep, set your sights on Montepulciano or Montalcino. The only negative is that you need to park in the public parking lots and walk to the apartments. We always rent our cars with AutoEurope.com. Best Things To Do In Montepulciano, A Tuscan Treasure As a little background, we have been travelling to Montepulciano at least once a year (sometimes more) since 2013/14. We appreciate the time you have taken to assist us. https://www.wanderingitaly.com/maps/valdorcia.html. Terms of Service | Privacy, Florence & Tuscany: Recommended Books and Movies, Assisi and Italian Country Charm (episode), Florence: Heart of the Renaissance (episode), Florentine Delights and Tuscan Side-Trips (episode), Renaissance Art and Architecture in Florence (clip), Siena and Tuscanys Wine Country (episode), Travel Talks: Hill Towns of Tuscany & Umbria, Florences Accademia: The Temple of David, Italy Connoisseurs Choose Leisurely Lucca, Sienas Palio: 500 Years of History in 90 Seconds, Tuscanys Powerful, Towerful San Gimignano, Volterra and San Gimignano: Hill Towns with a Twist, Pleasures of Italian Cuisine It has been open for a few years and was recently renovated in 2019. I am guessing from Siena I Can get a private transfer. After about 35 years, an exhausted barrel has nothing left to offer its wine, so it's retired. Without a car Im wondering how limited my mobility would be. I was contacted directly by another forum member asking for my thoughts and suggestions on Montepulciano in southern Tuscany. We would like to stay in town for about $150 or less a night (for four nights). Click here for instructions on how to enable JavaScript in your browser. chatting with various artists and watching them work. Pienza is very close to Montepulciano as is Montalcino. With my friend and favorite Tuscany guide, Roberto Bechi, were taking it a step further. But Francescos talk was so good (as were the wines he featured), I stayed for the entire presentation (munching perfectly matched prosciutto and cheese with the wines to call it dinner). Agriturismo Merigge. Everyone touring this area seems to be relaxed and in an easy grooveas if enjoying a little wine buzz. Posted by steve. We are 3 couples and plan on staying for 4 days. They are only about 5 minutes south of Montepulciano, and they offer free shuttle service to the town, so if you don't have a car, it is still easy to get there. Great place, great people, great food. And family farms survive here with the help of being able to rent rooms to travelers. They are very kind and never pressure you to purchase any of their wonderful winesbut you will want to! Restaurants parked on famous squares generally serve bad food at high prices to tourists. We just had a very nice stay at Dimora dell' Erbe right in the center of Montepulciano on Piazza Erbe. Beware of cheap eateries that sport big color photos of pizza and piles of different pastas. Thanks TJ. Instead, he shows me a scrapbook crammed with photos and postcards from his past visitors. I can actually feel the sound waves radiating all around me, warming up the top of my head. After your tasting, take time to stroll through the vineyards. We love Montepulciano but wouldn't plan to visit there without a car. You draw me right in Cameron! How to Spend 3 Days in Montepulciano, Italy | Kara Lydon Good restaurants don't open for dinner before 19:00. Unlike Californians wineries, here in Tuscany you need to telephone the day before to book your tours. The handwritten menu is a sure sign that this place revels in whats fresh today. I . Thank you! Posted by Margaret. Sandy & Phil Ferretti welcome you to their villa as friends not guests. There is also a local artist who has her own gallery on the main street. Unlike Californians wineries, here in Tuscany you need to book your tours (its a simply phone call the day before). With about 800 Rick Steves tours this year enjoying unforgettable experiences in every corner of Europe, I wasnt surprised to bump into one of my groups in an Etruscan cellar below the streets of Volterra having a wine tasting by Francesco. In the summer, they grow most of the produce they serve during their amazing breakfasts. I especially enjoyed the mosaic artist who works near his front door doing beautiful street and landscape scenes in fine mosaic glass. Which town in the Cinque Terre do you need transportation from to go to Montipulciano? Camere Bella Vista : https://www.camerebellavista.it/en/ 2023 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | CST# 2086743 | I too will be in Montepulciano this summer. He then demonstrated how you can determine if the tin is pure by how it crinkles and when it crinkles properlyyou can suck on it (or cook with it) safely. It will take you all of the way up to Piazza Grande at the top of the steep hill. They have one and two bedroom units that are very spacious. We are staying at Fonte Martino for five nights, as our home base, to explore the Tuscany countryside. This topic has been automatically closed due to a period of inactivity. Go see the coppersmith in Montepulciano and tell me if he is still alive. I stepped in and took a photo when I was staying in Montepulciano. Our highlights were Assisi, Ricks' ultimate hill town of Civita, Montalcino, and Montepulciano itself. RELAIS ORTAGLIA - Updated 2023 Prices & B&B Reviews (Montepulciano, Italy) Also a fine jumping-off point for exploring the Tuscan countryside with a driving tour of the Crete Senesi region. Lucca Charming town with a lively (and flat) center full of pleasant cafs and shops, ringed by intact Renaissance walls wide enough for biking and strolling. Any recommendations? Giulio, who reminds me of George Carlin with a cleaver, parades through the room with slabs of beef for diners to consider. I've stayed there twice, each time for several days, making it a home base for exploring other Tuscan towns nearby, but you describe so much that I didn't experience that I certainly need to go back soon! You can feel the authenticity this town represents as it is on the verge of being discovered as a destination. The second was the larger winery experience you mentioned. He only spoke Italian, but after showing us lots of baby photos from those past visitors and hearing him use the term "frisky-frisky" a few times as he winked at us, it became clear that those disks are made for a specific purpose. Strolling just a hundred yards along this main drag, I drop in on three different craftsmen each one with a fierce passion for doing just one thing, and doing it better than anyone. Family-run places operate without hired help and can offer cheaper meals. Where to Stay, Where to Eat, Wineries to Visit - Rick Steves Thank you! Mines Montepulciano. Both are very good, right in the historical center by Piazza Grande. Thanks much! This is not usually an issue, but can be cumbersome if you have a lot of luggage. We returned a couple of years later to attend their wedding. Unfortunately the suggestions in the 2018 edition are booked. BTW I am sipping a glass of this lovely wine right now! They jam the place for four seatings (two for lunch and two for dinner) every day. Register. Its most famous product Vino Nobile di Montepulciano ("noble wine of Montepulciano") is a high-quality, dry, ruby-red wine made of at least 70 percent Sangiovese grapes. Also, please make sure you visit your local AAA and get an international drivers license. Cesare, the coppersmith of the Tuscan hill town of Montepulciano, is a proud old artisan with a spirit as strong as the oak-tree root upon which his grandfathers anvil sits. ETA--Never mind now I see you are heading to Rome on Sunday. Siena Red-brick hilltop city known for its medieval pageantry, Palio horse race, proud spirit, and stunning traffic-free main square great anytime but best after dark. Thanks. 2023 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | CST# 2086743 | Some have one bedroom; some have two bedrooms; a combination of one, two or three apartments might work well for you all. Beyond beautiful views. Its all about his love for the craft. Very clean, whimsically decorated, and spacious. 1.54M subscribers More info about travel to Tuscany: https://www.ricksteves.com/europe/ita. Most rental agency are closed on Sunday. LAltro Cantuccio (http://www.laltrocantuccio.it/) Fantastic restaurant that serves modern food. Agriturismo LeCaggiole. Unless you like lasagna with ice in the center, avoid these. This topic has been automatically closed due to a period of inactivity. Montepulciano - Rick Steves Travel Forum I have stayed there 3 times and highly recommend it. The countryside around Montalcino is dotted with classy wineries that are evangelical about taking visitors on tours and tastings. A room with a Tuscan view like this is standard here. Across the river in the Oltrarno area. Learn more 1 hour (approx.) In Italy, when neighbors complain, bars comply. Your hotel is outside of Montepulciano, so you do need a car. Their noise disturbs the neighbors who didn't hear the action back when people stayed (and smoked) inside. Unfortunately, the Politian is booked for our dates. Afterward, I came up with some theories about eating out in Italy: While I've never liked putting up with TV noise when grabbing a simple meal in Italy, I now realize that when an eatery has the TV playing, it's often because it's where the local workers drop by to eatand that indicates a low price and a good value. Every traveler has their favorite Tuscan hill town. Just when you think you reached the bottom, it keeps going. I find the photos and descriptions on the website quite accurate for what we experienced there. Some of those I see are closed on Sundays 311 reviews # 1 Best Value of 37 Farm Stays in Montepulciano. Some restaurants have self-serve antipasti buffets, offering a variety of cooked appetizers spread out like a salad bar (pay per plate, not weight; usually costs about $11). He lays a copper circle onto his anvil, and methodically arranges his antique hammers. Did you find any particular wine tour in Europe exceptional? The only thing they remember is being exhausted. For 50 years, Adamo has made sure visitors enjoy a tasty education in the Nobile di Montepulciano. I know: I've been checking in on him for over a decade. (photo: Rick Steves) In Italy, the good life is a simple life, and good cuisine is simple cuisine. Venture beyond the fringes of Florence and you'll find a series of sun- and wine-soaked villages, each with its own appeal. A big reason for visiting Tuscany is to not just sample the great local wine, but to have it served to you by the families who make it. La vitabellalife is good in Italy. Elizabeth, we have been to La Foce and it is stunning! He wont let me leave until hes certain that I fully appreciate his lifes work. Is the best way to get there by renting a car or is there any other way? Find more at blog.ricksteves.com. And the good life seems, like the cuisine, simple. Their tasting room has a glass floor with Etruscan ruins lit up underneath. He instructs them to place the copper disk he gives them under their pillows once they return home. Allow more time in your itinerary bus service is spotty on weekends. Check the Politician apartments. Another option would be to stay in Florence and just take day trips out into the countryside. If you're paying for a wine tasting, you aren't obligated to buy. Here are my suggestions for accommodations, restaurants, and wineries to visit if you are planning a trip to Montepulciano. These aren't just decorative. keywords. It is a really fun experience with superb service. It certainly couldn't hurt! This is one I havent seen before is has some great suggestions. My Italian is rusty, but Adamos exuberance is a universal language. Parking is free in the nearby lot, Try: I have a question about the best way to get there, we have to go back to Rome on a Sunday and I keep reading different posts that say there is no transportation on Sundays. Just left it parked in the big lot in Monterosso the whole time we were there. We have our picture with him, toured his little museum, and then realized that he is last of his line. We have visited almost every month of the year, and there is always some event or festival to enjoy. Cesare uses his grandfather's fiery forge to hand-make copper vessels using an anvil, a wooden mallet, and the skills he learned from his father. Steep, twisty, cobbled lanes clamber up through an ancient, stony cityscape draped over a ridge. For emphasis, he periodically reaches out and excitedly grips my arm. Brunello is designed to cellar for 10 years or longer but who can wait? Any recommendations on organized winery tours? The diaries are titled "War in Val D'Orcia" and "A Chill in the Air. Today the roses can warn of mildew. Looks like they have availability on your dates. But she sure did. There he was, all alone, working on some gorgeous copper ladles (which he told us were for some fancy chef in New York). Montepulciano, Italy: Tuscan Vino and Views - Rick Steves' Europe Does anyone have any recommendations on places to visit? Pisa City more famous for its iconic Leaning Tower than for its other equally impressive monuments on the gleaming Field of Miracles, and with an old town that's fun to wander and delightfully tourist-free. It has been a long time dream to visit Italy and we will be staying just over three weeks. He points to his eyes, his nose, and his mouth: color, bouquet, and taste. That is the kind of people they are. Within 1.5 hours or less, you can visit Florence, Siena, Cortona, Pienza, Montalcino, Arezzo, Perugia, Assisi, Deruta, Orvieto, plus many other smaller hilltop towns. 05/05/08 06:15 AM 192 posts We stayed near Bucine for a couple of weeks last September (about 45 minutes from Montepulciano) and we headed down the road alot of days and just stopped at towns we came upon. Share your itinerary so we can make suggestions of where and when to get the car. But disease isn't the only pest: Locals say that wild boars make the best winemakers they wait to raid the vineyards until the grapes are perfectly sweet. Try to do a search with Trivago.com or Booking.com or other website and see what they have available for your dates. De Ricci (https://www.cantinadericci.it/) Located in the historic center, this place is wonderful. Montepulciano - Rick Steves Travel Forum I also presume you have a car. In Montepulciano, you meet people who cant stop working just because theyre retired. Close to the Boboli Gardens, beautiful property. 2023. I've realized I should stay away from restaurants famous for inventing a pasta dish. Oh, and as of summer 2016 the coppersmith was quite alive and quite still active in the shop and making some of the pieces sold there. Hard to beat the Locanda San Francesco, at the end of Via Ricci, just up from the Piazza Grande; next to the exit road. April 27, 2016 Encountering a Consummate Coppersmith Montepulciano is my favorite town of the top wine-making region of Tuscany. Id like to spend about a week there, but Im wondering how necessary it will be to rent a car. As for my thoughts on the car rental, for us, we always pick up at an airport and drop off at an airport. Try Palazzo Bellarmine. Il Leggendario Braceria 385 reviews Closed Now Osteria Acquacheta 4,118 reviews Closed Now Italian, Steakhouse $$ - $$$ Menu Amazing steak, food, and wine experience. Travel News | Rick Steves' Europe We had a car. I'm going to be in an agriturismo just outside of Pienza for four nights in May so I am definitely bookmarking this. The food is wonderful, the atmosphere is wonderful, and there is an excellent wine shop also attached. Enter dates to see prices. Explore Tuscany's world-class wines the entrance courtyard for your hotel, Meubl Il Riccio, is They are just outside of the city center of Montepulciano, but only about a 5 minute drive. You can easily get from Montepulciano to Rome on a Sunday (see the schedule on the Trenitalia website). Then you will need a taxi to take you up into Montepulciano and back to train station for your train to Rome. They nod in approval. Too hard to get to /from. I hope readers can appreciate the deep benefits of getting to know an area as you have versus the superficiality of a bucket list. And there we filmed the venerable coppersmith, Cesare, hard at work. Once again, I bought a magnificent pot that sits on my stove and I use several times every week. Rick Steves: Wonderful wineries in Tuscany - USA TODAY There's no asking how you'd like it done; this is the way it is done. Memorable experience we will never forget. Rick Steves It's a pleasant, low-impact town crawling with wine-loving tourists and a smattering of classy shops, but little sightseeing. Also visit the hotel websites to see if they have rooms with view. Florence, Pisa, Lucca, and Siena are readily linked by public transportation, but the smaller hill towns are more of a challenge. Thanks you so much suggestions. Thank you. There are some pretty steep ones, but that just allows me to eat more pasta! Locals eat better at lower-rent locales.